Our mission is to help people gain the skills and confidence to live their lives more sustainably and to love doing it. We run courses on our organic family farm just outside Cambridge (UK) in beautiful countryside on the edge of the Fens.
Pig Courses at Tedfold Cottage Farm
Let the team at Tedfold Cottage Farm show you how to keep pigs healthy and safe. Our one-day courses are 50:50 theory and hands-on. We believe that you can read when you like but cannot always handle pigs when you like so our emphasis is on the hands-on. You will feed the pigs in the morning, then cover rules and regs including the new eAML2, pig health and bio-security then go into all the pens and the woods to meet the friendly herd we have here. Then it is a rare breed pork or gammon lunch followed by pig health and breeding, off you go for stick and boarding instruction with different pigs followed by more cake and what to do at the abattoir. You will pick up piglets and have a go at stick and boarding which is always the high light of the day. The half-day workshops include piglet handling, stick and boarding with trained pigs first and then untrained so you can recreate the training at home. We also cover show ring etiquette, boar handling and hands-on loading pigs that have never seen a trailer before. This course is 90% hands-on and realistically you need to be sound of foot to gain the most from the afternoon. The 10% is refreshments and cake plus identifcation of pedigree pigs.Take a look at www.pigkeepingcourses.com for more information or give us a call.
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Wool and Feathers – Hen keeping and Feltmaking
Wool and Feathers is based on a 5 acre smallholding and we offer 2 types of CHICKEN KEEPING COURSES and FELTMAKING COURSES.
The first of our CHICKEN COURSES is for complete beginners and the second course is more advanced for those wishing to breed or expand their flock into keeping other poultry too. We keep and breed a few pure bred chickens, have a variety of hybrids to look at and compare. We also keep a few ducks, geese, turkeys and quail.
We sell surplus breeding stock and fertile hatching eggs at certain times of the year. We also hire out our incubators when we are not using them so you can have a go at hatching your own chickens which is a great experience for adults and children alike!
Our sheep are sheared each year and we use some of the raw fleeces to make felted items at our FELT MAKING COURSES. These fleeces are particularly good to work with as our rare breed sheep provide us with fantastic raw materails which felt quickly and are hard wearing due to their natural properties. I also hand make felted items which are for sale via our website and each are individual pieces and I also take commissisons.
For more information please look at our website or email for more information.
If you would like to buy a course as a present please email me as we provide personalised COURSE GIFT VOUCHERS.
Free future back-up advice given to anyone who attends any of our courses.
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Grow your own – gardening tips for March
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The Beauty of Whittling- aka Greenwood Spoon Carving
tHIS ARTICLE WAS WRITTEN FOR THE MONTHLY PUBLICATION ‘HOME FARMER MAGAZINE’ BY EDITOR PAUL MELNYCZUK AND IN CONTAINS SOME WONDERFUL COLOUR IMAGES – A MAG, SIMILAR TO THIS SITE, DESIGNED FOR SMALLHOLDERS.
SPOON WHITTLING DAY COURSES
David Alty and Dan Watson of Woodlands.co.uk have both been working wood for many years, and here they offer up two fun but practical tasks for all you would-be whittlers out there
MANY OF US may have first encountered whittling on The Beverly
Hillbillies, as Jed Clampett whittled away at a piece of wood by the pool of his mansion while Granny prepared a possum stew. Well, according to both experts and participants alike, whittling wood is such a fulfilling craft that it can develop into an addiction, and for many what started simply as a leisurely pastime has become something of a sculptor’s art and a lifelong pursuit.
Whittling is certainly one of the easiest hobbies to take up, as it is cheap with virtually no costs involved. The requirements are simple – a sharp knife, a piece of wood and a bit of oil are all a novice will need to try their hand. But whittling also has a utilitarian side, producing many useful and loveable objects such as spoons, bowls and figures, which stand out for their sheer uniqueness and authenticity.
Whittling is renowned as a relaxing and hugely enjoyable craft, which can work wonders at settling down even the busiest of minds –
perhaps a meditation for the restlessly creative among us. In truth there is nothing to compare with holding a sharp knife in your hand and striving to shape a small, carefully chosen piece of wood as a means of exercising mental focus and becoming fully immersed in a task to the exclusion of the world
around you – an essential respite in the busy and stressful modern world.
If you are lucky enough to own your own woodland, or visit one frequently, the temptation to turn odd pieces of wood into useful or decorative objects can become huge. Such is the case with regard to our two contributors, David Alty and Dan Watson of Woodlands.co.uk. As seasoned whittlers they have provided us with step-by-step instructions to make two whittling projects, each with the emphasis on having fun whilst being creative.
David Alty of Brampton in Cumbria developed an interest in woodworking as a young Scout. In the last ten years alone he has turned out dozens and dozens of spoons and knives (the sort you use for spreading butter or cheese), progressing through various designs. For David, whittling is more than a hobby: it has become an essential part of his life. He says, “Every Christmas I make sure that many of my friends and family get a spoon I’ve made. This is my way of giving them something that is unlike anything else. Every single carved
project is completely different in sheen, grain and shape. This keeps me busy creating things the whole year round.” I am confident his views here will strike a chord with many Home Farmer readers.
David recommends making a spoon as a beginner’s project and outlines here for us both the equipment and materials required, together with a step-by-step guide to completing the job.
TOOLS
. Sharp-edged knife (but preferably
not a penknife)
. Saw (to cut the wooden pole in half)
. Wooden mallet (or an offcut), to knock the wood
. Hooked knife
. Piece of charcoal or a pencil
. Fine sandpaper (optional)
TYPES OF WOOD
Silver birch, willow or sycamore – all species that grow readily and easily in woodland areas. They are good woods to use, as they are soft and easy to carve. Sycamore is also germ resistant and therefore useful for making utensils.
Spoon
METHOD
1 Select a straight piece of wood from any part of the tree. There is usually a huge amount of wood waste in any woodland, so look around for a good piece. Green wood is best, and the fresher the better, as green wood is easier to work.
2 Start by cutting the wood block to a length just a little longer than you will need for the finished spoon, then split it in half along its length. You can do this by placing the knife with the edge across one end of the pole and carefully, using an offcut from your pole as a mallet, knock your knife into the pole. Do this slowly,
without forcing it. You could also use a froe or saw to split the wood in half.
3 Remove the pith along the log. This is the thin brown line that runs down the centre. This will reduce the danger of the final spoon splitting down later.
4 Split the wood in half again so you end up with a flat piece. Decide on the width, length and depth of your spoon – most beginners make the mistake of aiming for a deep bowl, which makes the spoon uncomfortable to use in the mouth and, of course, it takes rather more time.
5 Draw your spoon design on your wood block using a piece of charcoal or a pencil, marking both the handle and the bowl. A cereal spoon is usually no more than 15cm (6in) long and 7.5cm (3in) in diameter.
6 Using a very sharp knife (blunt is dangerous), whittle and slice around the outline. The best method is to work along, one dimension at a time, following the wood grain. Work from both ends of the piece, carving away from yourself in all directions, with small movements. You will end up with a square spoon with no depth in the bowl.
7 Carve out the bowl. You will need an Indian crook or a hooked knife that has a curved blade. Work across the grain, gradually scooping out the bowl, but don’t go too deep. On a note of caution, this step requires the most patience and precision, and carries the greatest risk of cutting yourself.
8 Decide whether you would like to sandpaper the utensil. This is recommended for beginners, so as to obtain a smooth finish. If you do intend to sandpaper, store your work at room temperature for a few days in order to dry the wood out a little, which will make sanding much easier.
9 Oil your finished spoon to stop it drying out or getting dirty by using a nut oil from your local supermarket – walnut is a good choice. Avoid using olive oil, as it goes rancid. Dip a cloth in a bit of oil and wipe the spoon, applying 2 or 3 coats. It is a good idea to allow 24 hours between coats. The oil enhances the grain, protects the spoon and prevents it from splitting. If you are allergic to nut oil you can use horse grade linseed oil, but not the normal woodwork linseed oil.
Dan Watson of Leeds in Yorkshire has been doing woodcraft for over ten years. When he first started working for Woodlands.co.uk he learnt crafts such as building woven fencing, making charcoal and whittling, as well as using a pole lathe. He began teaching his own bushcraft courses in 2006. Dan says, “I really enjoy whittling. I must have whittled at least a hundred spoons and other objects. I sell a few, but not many – although that is not really the point, as whittling is addictive. For me, eating breakfast from my own handmade wooden bowl and spoon is incredibly satisfying. Besides, the entertainment
value of whittling is huge. Carving next to a campfire in the wood is far better than watching the best TV show. I hope my son will take it up one day.”
Butter-spreading Knife
Find a green, straight pole. Later, as you get better at whittling, you can use a piece with a bend or curve. To make a butter-spreading knife you will need to end up with a
piece that is 25cm (10in) long, 5cm (2in) wide and 2cm (3/4in) thick. The finished knife itself will only be around 20cm (8in) long, but the extra length allows a firm hold as you whittle off. You should always hold the carving knife in your dominant hand and keep the wooden piece in the other.
METHOD
Follow steps 1–4 as above.
5 Mark the shape of the knife along the piece using a pencil, or charcoal from the campfire.
6 Start carving out the knife handle. Note which way the grain is running and whittle off a little bit at a time following that direction, and always away from yourself.
7 Turn your attention to the blade and start whittling off with the sharp knife. The spreading edge needs to be rounded and thinner. The back edge is straight, thicker and stronger.
8 When you are satisfied with the shape of your handle and blade, cut it to size with a saw, removing the extra 5cm (2in) from the handle so as to end up with a 20cm (8in) long knife.
9 Follow the sandpapering and oiling instructions as for the spoon. Recoat the knife with oil every so often. Do not clean it in a dishwasher!
TIP
If you are not able to finish the project in one sitting put the wood in the freezer, otherwise it will dry out and become unworkable. Before resuming work, give it time to thaw out before you start again. .
Further Info
. The Woodlands.co.uk website
provides lots of information on
practical woodland courses such
as green wood working and many
other rural crafts and pursuits,
including woodland for sale for
the more ambitious whittling
wannabe. Visit www.woodlands.
co.uk/owning-a-wood/suppliers-
directory/training-and-courses/ to
learn more.
. Check out the Dan Watson
Woodland Products website at
www.dwwp.co.uk for information on
whittling courses and much more.
. Check out www.greystoke
cyclecafe.co.uk to learn more
about David Alty’s courses on
whittling later this year (20th July
and 3rd October).
The full article in pdf format including images is on our website
http://greystokecyclecafe.co.uk/workshops.htm#spoon
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Monkton Wyld Court
Monkton Wyld Court is an organic smallholding and educational charity on the site of a Victorian rectory in South West Dorset. An intentional community made up of anywhere from ten to twenty residents and volunteers, we grow veg in our walled kitchen garden for ourselves and our residential course guests. Our milk and cheese come from a small Jersey herd on site and Hungarian mangalitzas enjoy most of the whey. Our eggs are from our own chickens and we also keep a few sheep. We run courses related to sustainable living and personal development and also host school groups and community organisations.
Monkton Wyld Court is home to The Land magazine, the Scything Association of Britain and Ireland and Simon Fairlie’s Scythe Shop. We are also a part of the Peasant Evolution Producers’ Cooperative, South West Dorest’s cooperative for organic producers and supporters. Please contact us for more details on any of these or see our website for complete course listings.
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The Importance of Being Fenced
Next time you are out about in the countryside, spare a little time and cast your eye over the local fencing. How often do you see hedge holes being plugged by bits of corrugated tin? Or simply the fact that a whole section of fence has simply fallen down? Does anyone seem particularly worried about it? I would suggest not, after all what’s the worst that can happen? A couple of apologies? Maybe replacing a broken gnome… and a bit more tin or bit of wire rammed into the now bigger hedge hole. However, it could be very much worse and financially highly expensive.
Many of us are guilty of a quick fence repair at some point in our lives as 
after all we are busy people, with jobs or chores and livestock can be guaranteed to exit their field just when you are ready for work, on the school run, or maybe that rare event when you are actually going on holiday? We breed Herdwick sheep who have an amazing ability to eat their way through a hedge and then making a bolt for the M5 with a sign saying “Cumbria or bust!” at the most inconvenient moments.
Fencing affects everyone even if you do not have livestock. Do you really want Farmer Dave’s herd of Jerseys munching their way through your award winning garden having grazed your lawn all night? But how many of us have actually sat down and thought about what could really happen if our stock escapes?
The law in England and Wales is very complex and in the majority of cases, legal opinion is split down the middle, especially when their lordships are interpreting the Animals Act 1971. Various factors come into consideration including the behaviour of the animal in question and the likelihood of the animal escaping. In McKenny & Anor v Foster (2008), a cow climbed a six bar gate, crossed a cattle grid and whilst standing motionless on the road was struck by a car resulting in a fatality. The claimant lost her claim unaware of the cow’s “dangerous behaviour” and that the means of escape was unique. However in the House of Lords decision in Mirvahady v Henley (2003) it was decided that the landowner was responsible for the accident caused by three equines “bolting” through a series of fencing and running on to a road where they collided with a car. It is understood that the reasoning between the two differing judgements lay with the mental state and demeanour of the animal in order to determine if the animal was dangerous. The cow, in McKenny, was simply standing there so the danger arose from its bulk and physical location. The equines in Mirvahady were spooked thereby increasing the danger which resulted in their erratic behaviour. Cases such as these have pushed our Public Liability premiums up and made us even more aware that we need to keep our livestock enclosed.
If stock escapes and damages another person’s land or property the legal ramifications can be almost as severe. Can you imagine your reaction if a crossbred stallion enters your property and services your purebred competition mare? Apart from being displeased, who is going to pay the vet bills or loss of use? The owner of the stallion will predominantly be liable and under the rule of Rylands v Fletcher there will be little that could used in defence. Therefore the onus was on the owner of the stallion to install and maintain appropriate and secure fencing. As the countryside becomes ever more enclosed with new buildings and homes, with many wishing to escape to the country we must consider what their reactions could be to finding a herd of cows investigating their new car. An example of an extreme reaction was reported in the Daily Mail online on 15th March 2011 when 30 escaped Friesian cows were rounded up and then shot by marksmen outside a hospital in broad daylight!
It is not only important to be fenced but it is vital that the 
fence is appropriate for the type of stock. Too often we hear of accidents occurring where cattle have made their way through a plain wire fence or horses become tied up in barbed wire so consider carefully what it is you need to keep in or out. Attention must also be given to who else may be using your land. If a Public Right of Way (PRoW) crosses your property, you must fence accordingly in order to be assured that you will be free from liability claims and possible prosecutions.
Sadly, there has been a rise over the recent years of members of the public being injured and in some instances killed by bulls and large livestock. There is specific legislation regarding what types of bull are legally allowed to be present on a PRoW, but there is no current legislation regarding stallions, Llamas, alpacas or rams. Barbed wire alongside a PRoW may not be a breach of legislation but Section 164 Highways Act 1980 states:
“Where on land adjoining a highway there is a fence made with barbed wire, or having barbed wire on or in it, and the wire is a nuisance to the highway, a competent authority may by notice serve on the occupier of the land require him to abate the nuisance within such time, not being less than one month nor more then six months from the date of service of the notice, as may be specified in it.”
In addition, clothing damaged by barbed wire is also actionable. Stewart v Wright (1893) allowed for the claimant to be successful in his claim for his coat to be repaired after it was blown onto a barbed wire fence and was consequently torn.
Currently there is no legislation preventing electric fencing to run alongside a PRoW, but warning signs should be displayed every 50m to alert members of the public that the fence is electric.
With the aforementioned in mind it seems evident that on one hand you, the landowner or occupier, must securely fence land to prevent livestock from escaping but not secure it so well that members of the public can be injured, deterred or prevented from gaining access if on a PRoW. The recent case Herrick v Kidner & Somerset County Council (2010) where amongst other things the decision gave legal weight to the possibility of a psychological obstruction, Mr Justice Cranston stated ‘There is no reason to confine interference to physical interference. An object can get in the way of the right of passage or other amenity rights because of its psychological impact.’ This would then suggest that if you over engineer your boundary fence by installing security style or deer fencing in order to prevent your stock from escaping or being allowed to escape, then you may well be placing yourself in a litigious situation if a PRoW subsists or is proven to subsist.
So where does this leave us? We know that the animals belong to us. We know that if they escape we could be liable for any damage incurred be it personal injury and property damage. Therefore we need to keep our livestock enclosed and safe from harm but not by contravening other statute or common law should a PRoW subsist. The only answer seems to be that the livestock owner must install a fence that reflects the size and demeanour of the stock and the proximity to a metalled highway. If you drive along any major vehicular highway you will notice the highway fencing running alongside. This has been designed and installed to prevent the majority of livestock types from breaching it. It is not the purpose of this article to persuade all you to install this type of fencing but here are a eight key points to remember:
- Know your stock and their tendencies and fence accordingly
- Know where you Public Rights of Way are and ensure they are free from obstruction.
- If possible keep barbed wire away from footpaths but especially from bridleways and byways.
- Check your fencing regularly – ensuring that any holes or damages are repaired as soon as possible
- Keep your wire fences under the correct tension
- Maintain your gates – if they are difficult to shut, they are more likely to be left open.
- Mark your electric fencing every 50m.
- There are specialist Courses available where you should be able to learn fully about this often neglected but vitally important aspect of country life.
About the Author
Henry Whittaker who holds a Degree in Law and a MSc in Environmental Management and Conservation started his own consultancy and training business, Whittaker Equestrian and Countryside Consultancy (WECC) in 2008.
Previous to this he had worked for The British Horse Society managing their Rights of Way department, has assisted the Swedish Government with their Public Access policies and worked for the Ministry of Defence in regard to Public Access on Sensitive sites.
WECC is now offering practical and distance learning packages developed for you “The Smallholder.” These courses are designed to be engaging, informative and most importantly – relaxed!
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Sue Lang at The Beesness
Sue Lang from The Beesness is an experienced beekeeper who also makes preserves and teaches a wide variety of beekeeping and cookery courses. She started beekeeping in 2006 with her husband, but as they were thrown in the deep end from the very start, they both gained a huge amount of experience very quickly.
Sue was able to take redundancy in 2009, and has been running Introduction to Beekeeping courses, and Cookery Workshops since then. She sells her honey and preserves at Farmers Markets and a few farm shops in Bedfordshire.
Contact Sue direct if you wish to come on one of her ‘Intro’ days. They are usually held at weekends, but weekdays can be arranged too.
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